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Tasmania's not really for tourists; it's a place for travellers looking for something deeper. Put down the online reviews and follow your senses along the east coast.


The island's best experiences wouldn’t exist if we did what everyone else did. Lean into it: eschew the reviews, skip the tips and let your intuition guide you to meet the makers, movers and shakers who make this coastline so singular. 

Count stars in the sky instead of 5-star reviews on a screen. Follow your nose. If in doubt, go where the wind takes you; down here, it has a mind of its own. So do you.

A square, modern beachside cabin is warmed by the setting sun, looking out over grasses and rocks on the beach.

Follow your senses to Piermont Retreat in Swansea

Adam Gibson

EXPLORING SPRING BEACH, BUCKLAND AND ORFORD

 

The sea sets the mood and defines the flavours of today, so feel free to ebb and flow as you make your way up the Great Eastern Drive. Curiosity and an appetite for adventure will serve you better than ratings from strangers on the internet, so try something new and find firm favourites as you visit diverse distilleries, eateries and holiday escapes.

 

Start with brekkie at Elly’s Tasting Table

It’s almost impossible to resist going straight to dessert at this laidback pop-cornucopia of flavour, famed as much for its salted caramel and smoky maple confections as for the counter cabinet of grab-and-go treats. Fuel up with a frittata or eggs Benedict while peering out over Maria Island. The team crafts popcorn, fudge and florentines here, too, all of which are gluten free and make ideal road-trip snacks.

Bush or beach? Pick your next move

Flip a coin. When forced to decide between a serene Orford beach or Buckland’s rewilding garden, you’ll win either way.

  • Raspin’s Beach Conservation Area: Take a refreshing dip then settle in for a picnic lunch. This scenic spot is also a twitcher’s paradise: spy fairy terns, pied oystercatchers and hooded plovers in the Orford Bird Sanctuary at the southern end of the bay.
  • Tasmanian Bushland Garden: Twenty hectares of native bushland are ribboned with walking tracks maintained by passionate volunteers. Spot Tassie-themed sculptures between lush native foliage, wander up to the hilltop lookout, or explore the family-friendly playground.

 

Giddy up to something new

Swap wheels and feet for bridles and hooves at Horse Riding Tasmania, where bush rides weave between the towering trees and sandstone cliffs of Woodsdale’s bracken bushland. Let your horse be the guide as you canter over Bluff River Gorge or up a steep hill on the Bush Rangers Track. Each trail takes between one and three hours and involves well-trained mounts with names such as Thunder, Nipper and Forrest Gump. Bring long pants, a water bottle, sunscreen and a raincoat, plus curiosity (and maybe a carrot).

Follow your nose to lunch and spirit tastings

At Land Nautical, formerly known as Waverley Distillery, daytime dining is a simple affair at the cellar door. Pick from grazing boards studded with Tasmanian cheese and shaved meats, spicy nachos or pizza. Meet the makers here, who produce small-batch gins with rhubarb grown on site, cherries from the Huon Valley and colour-changing pea-flowers from Indonesia. Pro-tip: let the team show you their favourite way to try each tipple.

Keep your spirits high at Spring Bay Distillery, where gin, vodka and single-malt whisky tasting flights are paired with insider knowledge and a sea breeze. Stop over for a 30min session with the pros or make an afternoon of it with the premium whisky experience.

 

A detour bordered by beaches 

If the salt air has inspired a beachside stroll, fear not: Spring Bay Distillery has coastal enclaves in either direction. Head north for Spring Beach’s stretch of sugar-white sand and gentle bay waves, with views out over Maria Island. For a secluded beach of one’s own, try Stapleton Beach, south of the distillery, which is bookended by tall trees and a steep headland. Read a novel, journal about your day, or rate your findings to a mate over a long-winded phone call. Water plunges are highly recommended.

Historic pub dinner for when hunger hits

Do as the locals do and go with the flow. One of the best dinner options in town is the Spring Bay Hotel – a Triabunna landmark that's been feeding the locals since 1838. Enjoy crumbed lamb cutlets or a classic chicken parmigiana, paired with wine from a nearby small-batch winery, such as Darlington Vineyard or Gala Estate. Dinner runs Tuesday to Saturday but only from 6pm to 8pm, so plan accordingly.

Stay in your own style at Spring Bay

Spring Bay is flush with accommodation: the freedom to choose is part of the fun.

On private bushland, eco-friendly Hidden Spring Beach is tucked among the trees, its blue-gum cladding blending with the scrubby foliage. Here you can switch off and soak up sun-kissed bliss, whether in the outdoor bath while watching the sea or while trumping your companions in a game of Pictionary.

Want more choices? Sprawling across 43 hectares, Spring Bay Mill has plenty. The former pulp mill is home to five different kinds of stays, including beach shacks, two-bedroom cottages, domed glamping tents and the premium Ridge Suite. Bookable group experiences are also offered – including sea-salt tastings, bushfood walks and sauna sessions. You may need an extra day to fit it all in.

SPEND TIME AROUND SWANSEA

 

Time moves a little slower in Swansea, a seaside fishing village beloved for its agrarian output as much as for its sweeping ocean views. Throw a line – literally or metaphorically – and see what you can reel in. Between the vistas and the vineyards, the pace of life here will captivate you hook, line and sinker.

Start the day with indulgence at Kate’s Berry Farm

Sleep in, rise when you want and then mosey 3km south of town for breakfast at Kate’s Berry Farm, where you can nibble stacks of berry-studded pancakes while watching happy bees buzz around the brambles. Scoops of vibrant ice cream and strawberry milkshakes don’t hurt either, but go a slice of “Humbleberry Pie” filled with raspberries, blackberries and blueberries for the full experience.

 

Find your appetite on the east-coast wine trail

You’ll have to make a difficult decision first: which winery? All up, the East Coast Wine Trail includes 18 cellar doors and vineyards showcasing the terroir of this region, but Craigie Knowe Vineyard (the oldest on the east coast), Milton Vineyard (once a sheep property) and Spring Vale Vineyard (with onsite eatery Apéro Bistro) are all an easy drive from Swansea and all family-owned. That means you’ll likely meet someone directly involved with the grapes, whether a member of the lineage or a master winemaker who has landed here from further afield.

From there, head to Melshell Oyster Shack for punchy, freshly shucked Pacific oysters grown metres from your picnic table. You can snag Kilpatrick kebabs, oyster pâté and “Gold” oysters – the orange-tinted, buttery bivalves that Melshell specialises in – and pair them with a flute of local sparkling for the ultimate seafood experience.

Seek out a slice (or a spike) of history

Echidnas aren’t the only spiky thing around these parts. Jagged dolerite stones (the same geological material as found at Ben Lomond, Turrakana / Tasman Peninsula’s sea cliffs and Kunanyi / Mount Wellington’s Organ Pipes) make up a sturdy bridge that sits just off the Tasman Hwy. Pause to contemplate how convicts built this in 1843 without concrete or mortar, then pop across the road to Spiky Beach, where calm turquoise waters lap over a white-sand shore. You’re also a stone’s throw from Kelvedon Beach, where a heritage-listed boat shed stars at the southern end of the surf.

 

Dinner options in Swansea: fine dining or DIY

Part providore, part bakery and part sit-down eatery, Alimento rivals urban specialty food stores with its wide range of Tasmanian-made treats. Choose cheese and charcuterie or peruse pickles and pastries, then make the most of Swansea’s sunsets and take your pickings to the beach. Jubilee Beach, near the jetty, is the closest to town and often gets visits from dolphins.

Keen on something with a tablecloth? Located in the 187-year-old dwelling at Piermont Retreat,  Homestead Restaurant offers candlelit fine-dining for those seeking fancier fare. Seasonality is key, driven by the produce available from neighbouring farmers and local fishing expeditions. Expect zesty crudo, handmade pasta and succulent lamb cuts, followed by the famous house pavlova.

Bush or beach? Settle into a slow stay in Swansea

If you end up eating at Homestead, crawl straight into bed at Piermont Retreat’s stone cottages or swanky spa suites after dessert.

For uninterrupted peace in nearby Dolphin Sands, try the self-contained Sand Shacks. Look out over the Melshell oyster lease and up to the Milky Way via stargazing skylights positioned above the bed. Fishing gear and e-bike hire are available, and seafood hampers can be added for pick up on arrival so you can have shellfish available all day and all night.

Need a bit more privacy? Threefold is an architect-inspired escape disguised as a shed, stationed on sprawling wilderness. It’s powered by the sun, stocked with rainwater, warmed by woodfire, and well-supplied with a soaking tub, pizza oven and chess set. Plus, the timber used throughout was grown and milled on the owners’ family farm.

THERE'S SOMETHING ABOUT SCAMANDER AND ST HELENS

 

Feel that? The pull towards the slower, quieter path? That’s what you’ll find in this pocket of north-east Tasmania, where fishing spots are sacred, surf breaks are shared and local knowledge reveals well-kept secrets that are fiercely treasured by all.

Pit stop for pastries at Cake and Honey

Don’t leave Swansea without stopping in for a slice of lemon-blackberry cake or a chunky choc-chip cookie topped with Tasman Sea Salt at this pocket-sized cafe in town. It opens at 8am and stays open until everything is sold out, but coffee – with a view of the glittering coast – is consistent all day. (Sourdough deliveries land on Saturdays, by the way.)

 

Choose your nature experience: no online reviews necessary

Will it be the sea, the trails or the sand? In Scamander, the choice is yours. You could try a lesson with 42 South Surf School – wetsuits and boards provided – and tackle the wide breaks of Scamander Beach. Or opt for St Helens Mountain Bike Trails, about 15km further north, offering stacked loops, downhill shreds and a 42km trek through the bush to the Larapuna / Bay of Fires area. There’s also a range of shorter, easier trail rides through the forest, the option to hop on an e-bike, and a gentle track that links back to St Helens.

If you’re keen to see the sights at a slower pace, turn right off the highway at the St Helens Conservation Area, where the walk from the car to Peron Dunes offers endless panoramic views and a bevy of sandy domes to explore. If you’re sporting a 4WD, this is also a prime sand-driving spot. Just deflate your tyres beforehand and BYO winch.

Looking for a seaside lunch?

Look no further. In Scamander, order fish and chips, battered scallops or a big-as-your-hand parmigiana at the Scamander Beach Resort, overlooking the beach and river mouth. If you’re lucky, you might sub in for a game at the well-used pool table.

In St Helens, try the Wharf Bar and Kitchen or Panorama Hotel, both offering meals inspired by the surrounding waterways. Bypass the online ratings and make a beeline for whatever your tastebuds are craving.

 

Wind down with wellness or wind up with golf

A short walk from the St Helens Mountain Bike Trails, East Coast Relax and Recover offers a different way to appreciate the surrounding bushland: a woodfired sauna and bracing cold plunge bath overlooking a peaceful pond. Take a leaf from the eucalypts and stay strong as you switch between hot and cold therapy.

If you’re still looking for a way to expend any leftover energy, the Cerise Brook Orchard & Family Golf offers family-friendly fun in the form of golf clubs, giant Jenga and corn-hole competitions. The lawn games change but the fruit barn – flush with produce grown across the property – promises peak flavour each season.

A sign says "Easy Tiger" on a block building fascia above a bar and courtyard that's dotted with large rocks for seating

Dine, drink, catch a film at Easy Tiger

Ros Wharton

Easy east-coast dinner at Easy Tiger

At this venue in the heart of St Helens, the onsite brewery offers schooners of Pademelon pale ale and Pipehorse pilsner, the cinema shows the latest flicks, and the beer garden hosts regular twilight markets and live music. It’s as simple as that. The kitchen serves up burgers on one side and Thai staples on the other, so you can mix and match your pad see ew and crispy fish burgers all you want as open-mic night lingers.

 

Bright, beachy accommodation or a lavish forest stay?

Ease your east-coast adventure to a close. At Omaru Beach House, recap your trip over snacks by the outdoor firepit or while prepping dinner in the chef’s kitchen. Make sure to squeeze in a dip – thanks to direct beach access – before you leave.

Choose from one of three options at CNTNR, two of which are private pods made from upcycled shipping containers. On the banks of the Scamander River, you’re surrounded by birdsong and fabulously artistic furniture in equal measure.

Don’t spoil the surprise with online reviews, leave room for spontaneity. That's why Tasmania's not really for tourists; it's a place for travellers looking for something deeper.

 

Travel safely in Tasmania

A quick note before you set out: it's a good idea to read our Tasmanian travel safety tips, from driving, wildlife and weather conditions to walks, water activities and mobile coverage. 

FAQs


To find the undiscovered gems while on holiday, embrace your curious side and ask the locals. Order what looks good, sit where the light’s best and let the first bite be the only review that counts. It’s your adventure, after all.


The east coast of Tasmania is flush with talented makers keen to share their trade, craft and treats. Every bite tastes better when you’ve met the minds and hands that made it. Visit cellar doors to meet the wine and spirit makers on their own turf, or stop at curated boutiques – such as Makers Creators in Bicheno and Mint Gallery in St Helens – where all the talent is found in one place.


Leaving your itinerary up to a four-legged equine is an unexpected way to see Tasmanian bushland but Horse Riding Tasmania’s trail rides promise memorable adventures atop trusty, experienced steeds. Similarly, 42 South Surf School will help you better appreciate the power of this stretch of coastline, while St Helens Mountain Bike Trails gives an elevated – and hands-on – view of the north-east region.

Win a de-tourist holiday in Tasmania. Be like Lee Lin Chin.

The first step to ‘de-touristing’? Admitting you've got a few tourist habits to kick. Here’s your chance to rediscover your inner traveller.

Enter the competition

Lee Lin Chin sits on the edge of a deep black bathtub in a timber-lined cabin bathroom, reading a book, a glass of wine beside her and floor-to-ceiling windows looking out to sunlit eucalypt bushland.

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